Posted: 2008-08-06 15:14
This year’s Pan Mass Challenge fundraising goal is $34 million. That’s $42.50 for each of the estimated 800,000 miles ridden this weekend. For the 29 years of this event’s existence, cumulative contributions exceed $238 million. In 2007 fully 100% of every rider-raised dollar was directed to the Dana-Farber Cancer Institute, where it was spent on cancer research and care for those who are fighting for their lives.
After 52 days on the road, on July 22 I coasted into the beach at Portsmouth, New Hampshire with 39 others. Among those waiting for me, my father stood at the edge of the sand. He is 84 years old and in the past dozen years he’s faced down cancers of the colon, prostate, bladder and lung. Although he is worn from those battles and from aging generally, he traveled several hundred miles to be there. His hands trembled as he took photographs of the official “wheel-dipping” ceremony, the conclusion of the official America by Bicycle 2008 Cross Country Challenge.
August 2 – Sturbridge, MA to Bourne, MA
112 miles officially (3,946 cumulative)
110 miles actually (3,983 cumulative)
80 degrees, cloudy and humid at departure
92 degrees, cloudy and humid at completion
Average speed 18.0 mph
As the seconds ticked toward 6:00am the crowd’s palpable sense of the excitement grew. The several thousand riders in the Sturbridge Host Hotel parking lot were restless and eager to get started. As the final words of the Star Spangled Banner resonated through the heavy morning air, a shout arose from the crowd and the 2008 Pan Mass Challenge was officially underway. My friend Terri (a breast cancer survivor) and I started together, but for most of the day I pedaled alone. Riding “alone” in the Pan Mass Challenge, however, is not unlike walking “alone” in Midtown Manhattan at noon on a warm sunny day. I was one among a multitude.
For eight miles between the second and third rest stops I latched onto a pace line. The name tag of the young woman at the back of the line was pinned to her saddle bag.
“Jenna I’m on your wheel. Okay with you?”
“Sure, but no aerobars.”
“Don’t worry. I don’t have them.”
Laura rode in front, straight as the proverbial arrow and maintaining a constant pace, just a little too fast for comfort. The resulting level of exertion was a reasonable mixture of demanding and tolerable. Julia and Jenna rode behind Laura, and all three controlled their bicycles like professionals. For this short segment my speedometer never went below 20mph. There was no rotation and everyone stayed in his or her place.
I crossed the finish line at 1:09pm, substantially earlier than in any of my nine previous years of participation. The digits 109 hold special significance for those of us who make a living in the thrilling world of Tax Accounting and I wondered if I should consider this to be divine confirmation of my career path. Is it fate or predestination perhaps? Or maybe it’s simply the sort of endless punishment common throughout the best-known work of Dante Alighieri.
After a quick shower I enjoyed the short and mediocre massage for which the Pan Mass Challenge is deservedly famous. Afterwards Terri’s husband Rob and I met at the finish line under a gradually darkening sky and we watched Terri roll in, followed moments later by our friend Doug. Doug has ridden in 27 Pan Mass Challenge events. He is my hero.
Shortly thereafter the angry sky released a deluge, drenching those riders still out on the roads.
August 3 – Bourne, MA to Provincetown, MA
80 miles officially (4,026 cumulative)
76 miles actually (4,059 cumulative)
75 degrees with dense fog at departure
90 degrees and sunny at completion
Average speed 18.4 mph
At 5:00am we pedaled into the darkness and dense fog. Terri and I again set off together, and as we crossed the Bourne Bridge a bagpiper was at the crest preparing his machine. We rode past, sorry to have missed him. A few minutes later, however, we passed beneath the eastern abutment of the bridge and entered the service road beside the Cape Cod Canal. From there we heard the piper playing “Amazing Grace” and the echoing notes seemed somehow softer as they emerged from the mist that rose from the canal almost all the way to the paved surface of the bridge.
After six quiet miles on the smooth and level access road we passed under the structurally identical Sagamore Bridge near the northeastern end of the canal. From there we headed eastward along the bicep of Cape Cod, on the rolling hills of Route 6A.
Just before the second rest stop riders passed “Da Hedge” in front of the Cape Cod Sea Camp. Behind da hedge hundreds of people congregate to cheer, yell, blow horns and otherwise encourage the passing cyclists. The volume is astonishing. It’s hard to believe they can make so much noise.
At 7:15am I pulled into the “lunch” stop at Nickerson State Park in Brewster. Jack, a young cancer survivor, was there wearing the America by Bicycle T-shirt I sent him and handing out necklaces. He’s 12 now, and quite a bit taller than he was last year. In three years he’ll be old enough to ride in the Pan Mass Challenge. I know he’ll do it.
At the final rest stop I met Steve and Jon, brothers from my hometown. When we were kids their house was just down the street and up the hill. I graduated from high school with their sister Nancy. Maybe she and I will have the chance to talk about the Pan Mass Challenge event at our 35 year reunion later this year.
I finished at 9:53am, about 40 minutes earlier than in 2007 and certainly earlier than in any other year.
My friend Michele met me in Provincetown. In 1993 Michele began the fight for her life. For a decade she battled Non-Hodgkin’s Lymphoma, undergoing two transplants and numerous regimens of chemotherapy and radiation. Later she fought off breast cancer with the same determination. On this day she stood on the sidewalk with her husband and family. Happy and healthy, she cheered and applauded as riders rolled across the finish line.
Several hours later Michele and her family, Terri, Rob and I rendezvoused at Sundae School in Dennisport. I enjoyed a high fiber low calorie hot fudge sundae, with both whipped cream and marshmallow toppings. But no sprinkles…..I’m trying to watch what I eat.
*****
The ride across North America is over, and the ride across Massachusetts is over. Emotionally this is a curious combination of euphoria and melancholy. It is exciting to have done this, and inside my otherwise deeply flawed memory, every one of the 54 days is a precious jewel, to be frequently revisited. It is sad, however, to realize that it really is over. I miss loading my luggage in the trailer and riding off on unfamiliar roads in flyover country, wondering what the day will bring. I miss all the new friends I met on the ride.
At times I wondered whether I could do this. Others also expressed doubts, and such qualms were not unreasonable. Now I look back at 4,000 miles of roads, mostly well-paved, up and down mountains and sometimes headed into brutal headwinds. We had rainy days, but precious few of them. I feel strong. When I consider the uncertainties I had before the start in California, I realize that I was so much older then; I’m younger than that now. Apologies to Bob Dylan.
Think about something special you want to do. For me it was a long bicycle ride and for others it’s something different, but come up with something that most people would not do. I wanted folks to look surprised and say “You did WHAT?” There are no guarantees and you cannot know what the future holds. You owe it to yourself to find a way and DO IT.
Thank you everyone for your support and encouragement. We ride from Sturbridge at 6:00am on Saturday August 1, 2009, in a mere 8,624 hours.





